Elie Saab Pre-Fall 2025
For pre-fall, Elie Saab started a fictional, gilded journey on the Orient Express, with Maxim's in Paris standing in for the uber-luxury engine. Luxury riffed from the Belle Epoque and Art Deco eras-- saturated tones similar to rare-earth elements, gems, elaborate woodwork and Cordoba leather-- combined with tidy, 1970s-leaning shapes. Now, as then, the art of gown talked to a deeply attractive way of life tinged with secret and decadence.The distinction depended on ease. A female can't live by eveningwear alone, so Saab continued to lean into day dressing, for instance nicely carrying seasonal hints of tweediness on a coat in openwork wool shot through with silver on a tulle base, a relocation that will let that piece do perfectly by night, too. A peekaboo ensemble in printed macramé was,...